I have a Maytag LAT8415AAM Washer, which overfills when I set it to wash with HOT water ONLY. It does NOT overfill when I have it set to use warm or cold water.
I disconnected the air tube from the pressure switch (it was a nice tight connection, by the way), and I can blow through the tube, proving there isn't any blockage. Tube seems to be in good shape too, no dry rot and no kinks or cuts, at least as far as I can see (I did not drag washer away from wall to remove back panel and check the tub-end of the tube).
I tested the pressure switch. I can blow into its air connection and I can hear the switch "click". If I have a Ohmmeter hooked up to the pressure switch, I can see the switch is performing its electrical functions as expected: at the click I get infinite ohms on the terminal that goes to the water valves, and if I let the air escape the switch, it clicks again and I get continuity to the terminal that goes to the water valves.
I'm thinking it is the water valves themselves that are the culprit. Process of elimination: it is the only component left. Do you agree? Do you have a great diagnostic procedure I can perform to determine if the valves are bad?
I'm confused as to why the overfilling occurs when I'm using HOT only, but doesn't do the same thing when using warm, since the same valve is being used for both... Somehow having the cold valve in use simultaneously allows the hot valve to shut off properly, but hot valve doesn't shut off correctly when it is only valve being used?
I have very hard well water, and my softener does a pretty good job of removing the hardness, but I'm suspicious if the quality of my water is what has caused the faulty water valve (maybe scale build-up?) over many years of use (I purchased the house almost a year ago and it came with this old washer).
Not sure if it is worth it to try replacing the water valves in this washer, or just replace the washer itself.
Thoughts? Thanks, Cuz.
I disconnected the air tube from the pressure switch (it was a nice tight connection, by the way), and I can blow through the tube, proving there isn't any blockage. Tube seems to be in good shape too, no dry rot and no kinks or cuts, at least as far as I can see (I did not drag washer away from wall to remove back panel and check the tub-end of the tube).
I tested the pressure switch. I can blow into its air connection and I can hear the switch "click". If I have a Ohmmeter hooked up to the pressure switch, I can see the switch is performing its electrical functions as expected: at the click I get infinite ohms on the terminal that goes to the water valves, and if I let the air escape the switch, it clicks again and I get continuity to the terminal that goes to the water valves.
I'm thinking it is the water valves themselves that are the culprit. Process of elimination: it is the only component left. Do you agree? Do you have a great diagnostic procedure I can perform to determine if the valves are bad?
I'm confused as to why the overfilling occurs when I'm using HOT only, but doesn't do the same thing when using warm, since the same valve is being used for both... Somehow having the cold valve in use simultaneously allows the hot valve to shut off properly, but hot valve doesn't shut off correctly when it is only valve being used?
I have very hard well water, and my softener does a pretty good job of removing the hardness, but I'm suspicious if the quality of my water is what has caused the faulty water valve (maybe scale build-up?) over many years of use (I purchased the house almost a year ago and it came with this old washer).
Not sure if it is worth it to try replacing the water valves in this washer, or just replace the washer itself.
Thoughts? Thanks, Cuz.
via Maytag Overfills on HOT wash only (not warm or cold wash)
by cuzy123
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